The easiest way to get your grill ready for the season is to schedule a grill service or cleaning with us over the phone or in one of our stores (click here to schedule a cleaning).  With a little elbow grease, it’s not too hard to do it yourself. Here’s what we recommend:

• Dismantle: Remove the grates, briquettes & trays, (or metal flavor trays), drip pan and burners from your grill. 
• Firebox: With everything removed; clean up any grease and food particles that may have accumulated on the bottom of the barbecue.  Use a good scraper (even a putty knife will do) to rid the inside firebox of most grease and garbage that has collected there.  Make sure all holes are open so that future grease will make its way to the drip pan.  CAUTION: Do not use a high powered sprayer to clean your grill it may damage the grill beyond repair.
• Cooking Grates: Remove the grates and spray them with warm soapy water or Carbon Off and let sit for 15 minutes.  Wipe off with a rag or paper towels (no scrubbing necessary) and then wash them with hot soapy water.  Carbon Off is available at both locations and also works wonderfully on the inside hood and sides of the grill.
• Valve Orifice: Check the valve orifice and Venturi tube connection (where the burner meets the valve) to make sure that spiders have not built a web inside…spiders are attracted by the smell of gas to gas valves and burners. CAUTION: Be sure to consult your owner's manual for the instructions on how to remove the burner. Also, before removing the burner, take particular note of the position of the Venturi tube(s) at the gas control valve. Do not try to remove the Venturi tube(s) from the burner base itself as it is easy to damage the sealing gasket.
• Burners: Check the burners to see if any opening is clogged with grease or food.  If so, use a small nail or drill bit to open the clogged holes.  Do not make the hole bigger; just free it of any blockage. Replace the burners and test fire them to maker sure that all holes or supplying gas and that the flame is a nice blue color.  An orange flame means there is too little or too much air.  Most burners have an air adjustment which you can use to correct the mixture of air & gas to get a clean burning flame.  CAUTION: Be sure to consult your owner's manual for instructions on how to remove the burner. Also, before removing the burner, take particular note of the position of the Venturi tube(s) at the gas control valve. Do not try to remove the Venturi tube(s) from the burner base itself as it is extremely easy to damage the sealing gasket and break the seal.
• Igniters: Check the igniters to make sure they have a fresh battery and that the electrode is one-eighth of an inch from the burner to generate a spark (not necessary with electronic igniters).
• Flavor Trays or Briquettes: If the grill has metal flavor trays, clean them with a grill brush to remove most grease and any food particles. If the grill has briquettes remove as much grease and food particles as you can.  If the briquettes are locked into a tray turn the tray upside down over the burners and turn the burners on high for 5 minutes to burn off the waste.
• Lights: If any lights have burned out, remove the cover and replace the bulb.
• Hood: Polish the outside of the grill with a high quality stainless steel cleaner.  We recommend Bayes since it’s very effective and environmentally friendly.  We sell Bayes in 4 oz. and 16 oz. bottles.  If your hood has scratches, we recommend Scratch-B-Gone stainless refinishes kits.  It comes with an instructional DVD, multiple grid buffer pads and polishing solution.
• Tools, Covers & Parts: If you need to replace any parts, cooking tools or need a new grill cover, now is the time to get it done.  We’d be happy to help and can be reached in our stores or by phone.
• Prep the Grates: After cleaning, coat your cooking grates with olive oil using a clean cloth or paper towels; never use cooking oil from an aerosol can on your cooking grates. Pre-heat your grill on high for 10 minutes to bake-off any remaining chemicals or soap.  You are now ready for the season!

Many people stress over the thought of barbecuing for guests.  Actually, the process is quite simple.

When grilling steaks, focus on three levels of doneness: rare, medium rare and medium.  Well done is really a no-brainer.  People who order their meat well done haven't learned to appreciate the qualities of a good piece of meat yet and are likely to be less judgmental of your work.

Preparing the Steak.  Trim any excess fat from the steak before placing it on the grill.  It is the fat drippings that cause flare-ups and flare-ups burn the outside of the meat. It is a catch twenty-two when it comes to the fat on a steak.  Fat within the piece of meat is called marbling and it is marbling that gives a piece of meat its flavor.  It is the fat around the edges of the cut of meat you want to trim back. 

The grill should be pre-heated on the high setting.  You want the grill as hot as it gets.  A few minutes after turning the grill on is the best time to brush the grids clean.  Brush off any left over food and dust that my have gotten into the grill.  In order to do this you will need a long handled BBQ brush so you don't burn your hands or arms.

If you have a searing section on your grill, start your meat on this section of your grill.  A searing section is nice to have but is not necessary to produce a wonderful steak.

Sear the meat for about one to two minutes on each side while the grill is set on high.   This char on the outside of the steak helps retain the moisture inside the meat.  Do this no mater what level of doneness you are targeting.  One word of caution, if the steak is less than an inch thick this might be all you need to get it to medium rare.  To continue cooking, move the steak off the sear burner or turn down the temperature to a medium to medium high setting depending on your grill.

Rare Steak
A rare steak is bright red in the middle (about 1/3 the thickness of the steak) and charred on the outside. The temperature of rare meat is between 120 to 130 degrees Fahrenheit.  It would be a good idea to use a thermometer at first to help you learn the characteristics of a rare steak.  When the steak gets to 120 degrees F. touch the steak with your index finger.  Notice that a rare steak is still soft, but a little firmer than the raw steak. 

Medium Rare Steak
A medium rare steak is cooked to a center temperature of 130 to 135 degrees F.  The color is red in the center (about 1/4 the thickness of the steak) and then pink.  The outside surface is charred dark brown.  When you use the touch technique it will feel firm on the sides but still soft in the very center. 

Medium Steak
A medium cooked steak has an internal temperature of 140 to 150 degrees F.  The center is pink (not red) and then brown.  The outer surface should be charred dark brown.  The steak should feel firm to the touch with some flex to the meat. 

Special Tips
1) All grills have different settings with different temperature ranges.  You will have to learn how hot your grill will get at the different knob settings.  This will take a few times to get it right but remember a thermometer and/or the touch technique will let you know when the meat is done. 

2) The thicker the piece of meat the longer you will cook it to get to the internal temperature you want.  The temperature of the grill should be turned down for thicker cuts after the initial searing because the outside will get too charred if you leave it on longer.  You don't want to burn the outside while you are trying to cook a medium or medium rare steak. 

3) When you have a number of steaks on the grill and different requests for the degree of doneness you have to pay closer attention to what you are doing.  Have the grill set at different temperatures and know where the grill gets hotter and cooks faster.  Move the meat around and stagger when you start the steaks.  Rare steaks are going to get done a lot sooner than a medium steak.  Don't be afraid to get a steak off the grill early if it is cooking too fast – it’s better that then over cooking it.  You can always put a steak back on the grill if it is not done enough.  If you over cook it, there's no going back.

4) Meat continues to cook after you take it off the grill.  You are better off taking the meat off the grill about 5 degrees below your targeted temperature. 

5) Don't pierce the steak with a fork, use a spatula or tongs to turn and move the steak.  Piercing allows moisture to seep out and dries out the steak.  Hold the salt until you are done grilling for the same reason. Salts pulls moisture to the perimeter and makes for a dryer steak.

Well that's it!  After trying this method a few times you should be able to have the confidence to have your friends over for a BBQ and wow them with your skills.  GOOD LUCK!

Construction
1.      Do not use wood (fire hazard) or interior galvanized steel studs that are available at the big box stores.  Interior galvanized steel studs are too thin and do not have enough galvanization to hold up for exterior use. 
2.      Purchase 20 gauge, galvanized 60 steel studs commercially.  It’s best if you use both stud and track, since the track allows the studs to slip inside for perpendicular assembly.
3.      Using screws to attach the stud and track works, but will make the top and sides “lumpy” when you apply the cement board.  The finish product will look better if you can rivet or weld the pieces together.
4.      Use a square to keep the structure and stainless openings true and remember to cross brace the studs so the structure will remain square.
5.      Think about the spacing between items on the top and face so they are symmetrical.  The bottom of every opening should be the same distance off the ground. 
6.      When cutting upright pieces, its best to use a chop saw with “stops” so each piece will be exactly the same height.  This will help keep the structure square and level.
7.      Most of the stainless appliances have an outside flange (top, bottom and both sides) that is larger than the opening.  If you don’t space the openings far enough apart, the items may not install properly if the flanges overlap.
8.      When figuring the height of the grill, side burner or beverage center, be sure to take into account the finish material.  If you only measure from the outside of the unfinished top, the gap below the grill, side burner or beverage center will be exaggerated.
9.      Depending on which grill and doors you selected, the unfinished structure may have to be a minimum of 36” tall. To properly calculate the minimum island height, you need to add up the height of the doors including the top & bottom flange, plus the height of the grill, plus a minimum of 2” for spacing above and below the door flange. 
10.  The island depth (front to back) can be usually be determined by adding to the depth of the grill plus the “hood throw” (the clearance distance between the back of the grill and the furthest distance the hood reaches when fully opened.  The island depth is particularly important when the island backs up against the house or a wall; or if a backsplash or raised bartop will be used behind the grill.  Be careful not to make the island depth too shallow resulting in the grill hood only able to partially open.
11.  If you use 20 gauge galvanized 60 steel studs, the distance between studs can be 16” apart as they would be when framing a house.

Cement Board
1.      There are four cement board options for facing the studs to make the island structure finish ready.  Of the four, only one is warranted for exterior use: PermaBase manufactured by National Gypsum.  Its available at specialty building material supply stores like Thompson’s. 
2.      Avoid using Hardibacker.  It’s clearly stated right on the label that the material is for interior use only.
3.      ¼” thick material is available, but we only recommend using ½” thick material. It will add significantly to the structural integrity of the island.
4.      Try to minimize the amount of seams, using larger 4’ x 8’ pieces will add to the structural integrity of the island and also reduce the number of seams that will have to be taped prior to applying stucco.

Leveling & Anchoring
1.      You’ll probably notice the ground on which the island sits slopes, often in two directions.  Gas appliances operate more efficiently and your island will look better if it’s installed level, not sloping with the ground. 
2.      Use pieces of PermaBase to shim and level the low sides of the island.  This is best done before installing PermaBase on the sides, so the PermaBase sides can run all the way from the top of the island, over the shims to the ground.
3.      Once the island is shimmed, level and ready to install the sides, you’ll have to decide if you want to anchor the structure to the ground.  Red Heads are a good anchoring device if you elect to do this.  However, most islands once finished with the stainless installed are heavy enough not to require anchoring.

Finishes
1.      The countertop should be finish ready after the PermaBase is installed.  We recommend using a higher grade thinset, such as Versabond for applying tile, travertine, slate, etc to the counters.
2.      Stucco Preparation.  Prior to applying the stucco, you will need to tape all the PermaBase seams with drywall net (yellow or white plastic net).  Adhere the net to the PermaBase with speedset or thinset using a taping blade as you would with drywall mud.  Make sure the taping is applied smoothly since you don’t want to sand the speedset or thinset after it dries.
3.      Stucco Application. We use a premixed acrylic product called DryVit for the sides.  The product comes in different textures and can be finished smooth, semi-smooth or sanded.  It’s possible to either spray or trowel it onto the PermaBase.  The product comes in many standard colors but can also be custom colored.  The application is quite thin, approximately 1/8” thick.
4.      If you are using stone or rock on the sides, you may be able to apply it directly to the PermaBase.  If the rock is quite thick, you may have to attach a diamond steel mesh to the sides prior to installing the rock.  It’s best to follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Material Sources
1.   Thompson’s Building Materials (714) 637-7373 – PermaBase
2.   Cal-Wal (714) 637-3450 – 20 gauge/galvanized 60 steel studs & DryVit stucco
3.   Home Depot – self tapping stainless screws for screwing steel studs & track, self taping drywall screws, VersaBond

Pairing wood chips with meat is little like pairing a wine with a meal.  The right wood with the right meat makes the meal that much better.  Before talking about which wood works best, let’s get some wood chip smoking myths out of the way.  Here are a few myths you can ignore:

• “Soak the chips before smoking them” – not always necessary!  If you are grilling something flat like burgers, chicken breasts or steak use a small handful of dry chips.  The meat is only on the grill a short time and you don’t need them to last a long time.  If you are smoking a large piece of meat for a long time, soaking will extend the life of the chips somewhat, but not all that much.
  
• “The more smoke the better” – not true!  One of the easiest ways to ruin a good barbecue is to over smoke the meat.  If you are new to smoking, try using a small handful of chips at first and then using more for a heavier smoke in the future.
• “Put the meat and the chips in the grill at the same time” – not true!  Always place the chips in the grill first.  Do not add the meat until the chips are actually smoking. 

Here are our recommendations for pairing smoking chips and meat and little description of the type of flavor you should expect.

1) Mesquite – adds a hint of sweetness with a strong earthy smoky flavor to it. It is very popular and often used in restaurants. Sweeter and more delicate than hickory, it's a perfect complement to richly flavored meats such as steak, duck or lamb.
2) Hickory – the classic BBQ flavor and is more pungent and smoky producing a bacon-like flavor. The most common wood used. Good for all smoking, especially ham, pork and ribs.
3) Apple – has a more delicate flavor than either Mesquite or Hickory.  Apple works wonderfully with poultry, game birds, seafood and pork. Serve with a chutney made with apples to accentuate the flavor even more. Slightly sweet with a fruity smoke aroma.
4) Grape (Cabernet) – is traditionally used in Italy and France, and offers a more delicate flavor than hardwoods.  Grape wood is recommended for use with fish and poultry. Aromatic, similar to other fruit woods.
5) Pecan – is the best for a beautiful golden-brown turkey. Try it with other poultry products, game birds, seafood and even pork for that delicate pecan flavor. Similar to hickory, but not as strong.
6) Cherry – is also a lighter smoke than mesquite and hickory.  It has lighter, sweeter smoke and is excellent with poultry, game birds, seafood and pork.  Serve with a chutney made with cherries to accentuate the flavor even more.
7) Maple – is lighter than mesquite and hickory but stronger than apple, alder or cherry.  The smoke is slightly sweet and is excellent with poultry, game birds and pork. 
8) Oak – is a heavier smoke, similar to mesquite and hickory. Oak is excellent with beef, pork and game meat.
9) Alder – another lighter wood.  It’s the perfect choice for salmon and turkey. 

See the link below for store locations and hours to purchase wood chips and smoker boxes:
http://www.bbqgrillsandislands.com/locations.html

Like every industry marketing departments for grill manufacturers like to find ways to differentiate their product from the competitors.  This can become very confusing.  Do you really need an infrared burner?  Is a back burner important?  Is a stainless burner better than a brass burner or is it the other way around?

Let’s take a look at a few of the most important components in a BBQ grill, which include:



1.      Burners
2.      Flavor grids or briquettes
3.      Sear Burner
4.      Rotisserie Back Burner
5.      Igniters

Burners
Other than avoiding cast iron burners, the two most important things about any burner is how much heat will it produce and what is the warranty.  The manufacturers are getting better at producing heat, but all burners will fail over time.  How long is the warranty and how good is the company behind the warranty?  A lifetime warranty from an unknown manufacturer doesn’t help very much when they go out of business.  So in the end brass is no better than stainless or vice versa it’s all about the warranty and the company.

Flavor Grids or Briquettes
The middle layer in any gas grill is primarily there to produce smoke, aroma and flavor.  The material doesn’t matter so much, it’s the heat that does all the work.  Here are four important questions you want answered about the flavor grids or briquettes:
·         Does grease easily pass through to eliminate flare ups?
·         How easy are they to clean?
·         What is the warranty, like burners they will fail over time?
·         Will they help produce even heat to the grilling surface?

Infrared Sear Burner
Most manufacturers offer and want you to buy an infrared sear burner.  For some people it makes a lot of sense and not so much for others.  Some grills produce so much heat that a sear burner is not necessary.  Other grills are too small and when you lose 33% or 50% of your BBQ to searing, you don’t have enough space left over for grilling.

Rotisserie Back Burner
If you like to rotisserie, a back burner is a really nice feature.  It does two important things.  With the heat in the back you no longer have to worry about grease dripping from the meat and catching fire from the burners under the cooking grates.  Moving the heat source to the back, your meat is safe.  Secondly it allows you to place a collection pan under the meat to collect drippings for gravy.

Igniters
In every grill this is the weakest component with normally a shorter warranty than other compone.  There are 3 types of grill igniters:
·         Battery - The most likely to fail but can usually be replaced easily.
·         Piezo – A mechanical igniter that produces an electrical charge when a “hammer” strikes   a quartz crystal.   Usually more reliable than battery igniters.
·         Electrical Glow Plug – It uses electricity to produce high heat on a metal probe next to the burner, hot enough to ignite the gas.  The most reliable igniter system used in BBQ grills.

You’ll enjoying see the various components and options in our stores.  Our staff will take as much time as you want to explain the various options.   We have the best grills at the best prices on display in our stores.  The following link shows store locations and hours.  http://www.bbqgrillsandislands.com/locations.html

Picking out the right size BBQ grill is one of the most important decisions in selecting your new grill.  The choice requires some balancing between cost, available room and actual grill space. 

Available Room 
If the grill is a free standing cart, be sure to note if the shelves fold down if your space is limited.  Some grills have folding shelves, many do not.  If the grill is built-in to an island, it’s always best to leave at least 12 inches of counter space on either side of the grill.  12 inches allows room for a plate or platter.  If the grill section on the island is 5 feet long, a 3 foot grill (or less) is the perfect choice to leave enough counter space.

Grill Space
Rule out the largest party or two a year and determine what size is a “typical large” group to entertain.  For my wife and I that is about 12 people.  Next determine what you typically grill when you entertain.  Both chicken breasts and steaks take up a good amount of space. 

Let’s say that the average chicken breast or New York steak takes up about 24 square inches with a little room between the pieces.  For every 100 square inches of primary cooking space you can cook for 4.  For a party of 12, I need a grill with at least 300 square inches of primary cooking space.  (some manufacturers include the warming rack as available square inches so it’s best to measure the width and depth of the actual cooking grates to determine the square inches).

I also like grilling our vegetables; asparagus and artichokes are two of our favorites.  If you enjoy this too, then you need still a bigger grill.  Add 30% to 50% more grill space for the vegetables.  For our typical large party of 12 people; 400 to 500 square inches of primary cooking space is going to be perfect for the meat and vegetables.

A last consideration is to exclude the sear burner from your available space.  Most sear burners are too hot for normal grilling.  This means when you calculate the square inches, deduct the width of the sear burner when determining the available grilling area.

Cost
This is almost too obvious to mention but in every line, the larger the grill the higher the price.  As a general rule of thumb a value grill will run about $50 per inch in width.  That means a 32 inch wide grill will run around $1600, give or take.

With a premium line the typical cost will be about $100 per inch in width.  This means a 36” wide grill will cost approximately $3600, give or take.

The best recommendation we can make is to buy enough grill, but not more than you will use.

See the link below to find our store locations and hours.  We’d like to help you figure out the perfect size grill.

http://www.bbqgrillsandislands.com/locations.html